But we discovered one place that’s perfect if what you want is a sun/pool/beach break. Phu Quoc is a large island in the south of Vietnam, 15 kilometres off the coast of Cambodia, that has lots of fabulous beaches. December and January are the best months to visit – it’s too hot in the spring, and the rainy season stretches from June to October.

For a long time it was an off-the-beaten-track destination for backpackers, but more recently its tourism industry has grown fast. A number of international players such as Radisson and Novotel have moved in, but we stayed at a locally owned property, the Vinpearl Resort and Spa. It’s operated by property developer Phạm Nhật Vượng, Vietnam’s first billionaire.

It is a large, smart place on the west of the island on Bai Dai Beach, a long sandy stretch notable for stunning sunsets. We found it pretty comfortable, though the service was not as slick as you’d expect from one of the international chains. It has a crazily large swimming pool that takes ages to walk around if you want to get to, say, the beachside bar.

It felt a bit isolated, though there’s another, even smarter Vinpearl property with an 18-hole golf course next door if you want a change of scene. Behind the resort is a rather under-powered amusement park.

The temptation when you’re paying to stay at a good resort hotel is to spend a lot of time using the facilities to get your money’s worth, but it’s worth going out and about in Phu Quoc.

Despite all the new hotels, a large part of the island is a UNESCO-designated national park. While most of the land is inaccessible, it is possible to go hiking, camping and bird-watching in surrounding areas.

Diving is popular, though I had the most ridiculous dive trip ever. I took a taxi to Duong Dong, where I got on a boat that took me all the way back to a site just off the shore from my hotel. There weren’t any operators who took divers out from the hotel. Night squid fishing trips are also on offer – lights are used to attract the animals to the boats.

Foodies will be interested to know that Phu Quoc is known for its fish sauce and pepper. The pungent sauce is of very high quality – it’s been awarded European Union Protected Designation of Origin status. This puts it on the same level as Champagne, Parma ham, and – bizarrely – Yorkshire forced rhubarb. It’s packed with flavour and is great to use in all sorts of Asian dishes.

There are a number of sauce factories where you’re welcome to visit and peer at vats of fermenting anchovies. Don’t be tempted to buy any to take home, though, as you won’t be allowed to take it on the plane.

According to reports, bottles carried by passengers have been known to burst, releasing a strong smell that upset other travellers and lingered in aircraft cabins for years. So now airport security staff look out for sauce bottles as well as guns and explosives when they X-ray your bag.

You’ll see pepper plants growing around the main town, Duong Dong, and elsewhere. Sue grew up in Kent, England, and mistook the tall plants for hops, so that gives you an idea what a pepper garden looks like.The pepper is rated by some as the best in Vietnam. Coffee is also grown, and can be enjoyed at cafes across the island. Seafood is widely available.

Sadly, Phu Quoc did not escape the turmoil and conflict that blighted this region for decades. Cambodia claims the island, and in 1975 the territory was attacked by Khmer Rouge troops. This was the first of a number of such incidents that led to the Cambodian-Vietnamese War and the eventual fall of the Khmer Rouge regime.

The proximity to Cambodia gives Phu Quoc a different feel to other parts of Vietnam – it can seem more Cambodian than Vietnamese.

Verdict: Great choice for a relaxing winter break.

Top tip: Do try the cafes for expertly served coffee in an appealing setting.

Updated June 2020