However, the country will be in the spotlight this year with the Olympic Games being held in Tokyo from July 29 to Aug. 9. Kyoto, 2 hours, 30 minutes away by bullet train, is hosting pre-Games training and bracing itself for an onslaught.

One thing that surprised me is that the city is demolishing some of its temples to make way for hotels and other facilities for the Olympics – which has led to archaeologists unearthing what one calls “a treasure mountain” of ancient artefacts.

So why do 53 million tourists trek to Kyoto, a city of 1.5 million, each year? Well, it’s beautiful, historic, and central to Japan’s history.  It’s the birthplace of the geisha and kabuki theatre and was the capital of Japan for 1,000 years until the emperor moved to Tokyo in 1868.

I liked Kyoto’s size; it is made for walking. Since our visit I’m saddened to read that the residents resent tourists packing their pavements and filling their buses; last year some attractions even started refusing entry to foreigners. However, the Philosopher’s Walk (see link to my post below) and a promenade along the Kamo River which goes through the town are a must.

There’s no doubt Kyoto has problems, balancing the tourist income with an ageing and dwindling population, but we went there in May and I didn’t feel crushed and was never made to feel unwelcome. A department store beauty salon even stayed open to give me a pedicure when I wandered in haplessly early one evening not knowing what their working hours were.

Which brings me to a crucial point about visiting Japan, and that is language. Even in Kyoto it can be tricky speaking English, which leads to a detached experience of smiles, nods and hand gestures and adds to the other-worldly atmosphere of the city.

We stayed in a small hotel on the edge of Gion, the historic part of the city, called Hotel Kiyomizu Gion, where the rooms left something to be desired but the breakfast – delivered to our room every morning by a man who bowed so low he almost hit his head on the floor – were exquisite and delicious works of art.

We ate in a ryokan, and we’ll do a separate blog on that because it was such a standout experience. We went to temples, and since there are 1,600 of them in the city you can pretty much just stumble across one to visit. We spent a Sunday morning strolling around the city, we visited an Irish bar (!), saw an exhibition of Henri Cartier-Bresson photographs and looked at the Imperial Palace.

I say “looked at” because you need permission to go in, and that’s generally only given to tour groups. However, it’s in the Gyoen Park and the grounds are breathtaking. We wished we’d packed a picnic. Another must-go, in my opinion.

There were a lot of youngsters in traditional dress walking around, and I noticed several shops where you could hire costumes for the day. A Japanese friend later told me that it’s a brand-new phenomenon and is the young generation’s way of celebrating and owning their culture. On the other hand, authorities are taking action against tourists who photograph geishas in Gion on their way to and from work. Many have been reduced to tears, and the tourist board has issued rules of etiquette for visitors.

I remember Kyoto fondly, and loved our visit there. Perhaps, having once lived a stone’s throw from England’s Canterbury Cathedral, I understand the frustrations of locals but I found it charming, friendly and breathtakingly lovely.

It shocked me to realise it’s 56 years since the last Tokyo Olympics introduced a modernising Japan to the world. I remember learning the theme tune, Good Morning, Tokyo, on my recorder, never realising I would one day visit the country. I’m glad I have.

Top tip: For once, I recommend buying a good guidebook with maps and everyday phrases so you can look around the city independently. And get your hotel reception to help with buses; it can be tricky finding the correct stop for your destination.

January 2020

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