Garden Spectacle
Grew on Me
COLIN SIMPSON
Gardens by the Bay, Singapore
IN 1996, the year before the handover of Hong Kong to China after 156 years of British rule, I flew from London to Australia. I stopped off for a couple of nights in Singapore on the way out, and had a similar stopover in Hong Kong on the return trip.
I was struck by the stark difference between the two cities, which on the face of it had so much in common. Both were densely populated places with futuristic skyscrapers and mainly Chinese populations.
But while Singapore, though clean and tidy, seemed rather sterile and dull, Hong Kong was vibrant and exciting. Singapore’s skyline, while impressive, lacked the dazzling neon lights that blazed from Hong Kong’s many towers.
It was a particularly restrained period in Singapore’s history. Men with longish hair were given compulsory haircuts on arrival, and signs in every metro carriage warned of the penalties for breaking the chewing gum ban. The food stalls that in earlier years had brought life, character and delicious smells to the streets had been moved indoors out of sight. And failing to flush public toilets was against the law.
Hong Kong, in contrast, seemed to crackle with energy and excitement, even if many of its side streets were messy. Years later, when I lived in Hong Kong, visitors from Singapore would talk of how much they enjoyed coming to the territory and escaping stultifying Singapore.
Things have changed a lot, though, and Singapore seems much more relaxed these days. Meanwhile, the violent clashes between protesters and police in 2019 and the subsequent introduction of a strict national security law have altered Hong Kong, probably forever.
Tourism is Key Industry
Hong Kong, while identifying tourism as a key industry, has always been rather complacent about the need to lure visitors. For example, there is only one tourist information office on Hong Kong Island. And efforts to create attractions have appeared half-hearted – Disneyland Hong Kong is the smallest Disney theme park.
It’s as if the simple thrill of being in the exhilarating metropolis with its fabulous harbour was deemed enough to keep the visitors rolling in. The location on the edge of China, with its 1 billion-plus population and rapidly growing middle class, helped too.
In contrast Singapore, as Hong Kong’s dreary cousin, always had to work harder to attract visitors – hence the world-class zoo, Universal Studios Singapore and the rest.
The most prominent and striking of these tourist draws is Gardens by the Bay. Vast tree-shaped structures rise up on the waterfront close to the striking Marina Bay Sands resort, and there are two enormous dome-shaped glasshouses to explore.
I have to admit that initially I didn’t think a garden attraction would appeal to me. But it’s all carried off with such style, originality and extravagance that I was forced to change my mind.
You can walk between the “supertrees” on an elevated walkway with great views across the city. The Flower Dome glasshouse is packed with colour, while the Cloud Forest has more walkways and a 35-metre-high waterfall.
Back outside, there are various gardens to explore, plus sculptures and numerous places where you can stop off for something to eat. At night, everything is lit up, adding a further layer of spectacle.
Verdict: Fabulous, unique city centre attraction that drags the public garden tradition firmly into the 21st century.
NEED TO KNOW: Gardens by the Bay
GETTING THERE: Train/bus – Circle Line/Downtown Line to Bayfront MRT Station, take Exit B, follow underground linkway, cross Dragonfly Bridge or Meadow Bridge; East-West Line to Tanjong Pagar MRT Station, take Exit C, go to bus stop number 03223 on International Plaza, Anson Road, take the 400 bus, alight at bus stop number 03371 on Marina Gardens Drive. Car – from the Marina Coastal Expressway, turn onto Central Boulevard, then turn right to Marina Gardens Drive.
OPENING HOURS: Flower Dome, Cloud Forest and OCBC Skyway 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Times for other attractions vary – see official website for details.
TICKETS: Admission to glasshouses 28 Singapore dollars adult, S$15 child; OCBC Skyway S$8 adult, S$5 child. See official website for other prices. Visitors have to pre-book the date and time of their visit, and tickets can be bought online or through the attraction’s mobile app.
CONTACT: Address: 18 Marina Gardens Drive, Singapore 018953. Phone: (65) 6420 6848. Email: feedback@gardensbythebay.com.sg
December 2020
MORE INFO
OFFICIAL Gardens by the Bay site has a wealth of information to help you make the most of your visit. READ MORE
RELATED
RAFFLES FACELIFT: Raffles in Singapore was the first posh hotel I encountered, at the end of my first long-haul flight, a few days before my 21st birthday… READ MORE
WHISPERING GRASSES: I’d spent almost five years at home in England nurturing a tiny patch of black bamboo in our back garden, and then I visited this place. Its bamboo grows into forests, a testament to the man who brought them over from China… READ MORE
THE GARDEN OF EDEN: Getting up the energy actually to do some tourism during a stay in the Seychelles might seem like a stretch, but the Vallée de Mai is an exception. I’d say it’s a must-do, so think of it as much-needed exercise… READ MORE
CHERRY BLOSSOM CRUSH: Each year in late March cherry blossom season arrives in Beijing in all its glory. What could be better, you might think, than a relaxing stroll through one of the city’s many fine parks gazing at the beautiful pink blooms… READ MORE
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Disclosure: Afaranwide is an affiliate of leading travel operators such as Booking.com and Japan Rail Pass. If you purchase through our site we receive, at no additional cost to you, a small commission. We only work with companies we have used and recommend.
LET'S KEEP IN TOUCH!
Garden Spectacle
Grew on Me
COLIN SIMPSON
Gardens by the Bay, Singapore
IN 1996, the year before the handover of Hong Kong to China after 156 years of British rule, I flew from London to Australia. I stopped off for a couple of nights in Singapore on the way out, and had a similar stopover in Hong Kong on the return trip.
I was struck by the stark difference between the two cities, which on the face of it had so much in common. Both were densely populated places with futuristic skyscrapers and mainly Chinese populations.
But while Singapore, though clean and tidy, seemed rather sterile and dull, Hong Kong was vibrant and exciting. Singapore’s skyline, while impressive, lacked the dazzling neon lights that blazed from Hong Kong’s many towers.
It was a particularly restrained period in Singapore’s history. Men with longish hair were given compulsory haircuts on arrival, and signs in every metro carriage warned of the penalties for breaking the chewing gum ban. The food stalls that in earlier years had brought life, character and delicious smells to the streets had been moved indoors out of sight. And failing to flush public toilets was against the law.
Hong Kong, in contrast, seemed to crackle with energy and excitement, even if many of its side streets were messy. Years later, when I lived in Hong Kong, visitors from Singapore would talk of how much they enjoyed coming to the territory and escaping stultifying Singapore.
Things have changed a lot, though, and Singapore seems much more relaxed these days. Meanwhile, the violent clashes between protesters and police in 2019 and the subsequent introduction of a strict national security law have altered Hong Kong, probably forever.
Tourism is Key Industry
Hong Kong, while identifying tourism as a key industry, has always been rather complacent about the need to lure visitors. For example, there is only one tourist information office on Hong Kong Island. And efforts to create attractions have appeared half-hearted – Disneyland Hong Kong is the smallest Disney theme park.
It’s as if the simple thrill of being in the exhilarating metropolis with its fabulous harbour was deemed enough to keep the visitors rolling in. The location on the edge of China, with its 1 billion-plus population and rapidly growing middle class, helped too.
In contrast Singapore, as Hong Kong’s dreary cousin, always had to work harder to attract visitors – hence the world-class zoo, Universal Studios Singapore and the rest.
The most prominent and striking of these tourist draws is Gardens by the Bay. Vast tree-shaped structures rise up on the waterfront close to the striking Marina Bay Sands resort, and there are two enormous dome-shaped glasshouses to explore.
I have to admit that initially I didn’t think a garden attraction would appeal to me. But it’s all carried off with such style, originality and extravagance that I was forced to change my mind.
You can walk between the “supertrees” on an elevated walkway with great views across the city. The Flower Dome glasshouse is packed with colour, while the Cloud Forest has more walkways and a 35-metre-high waterfall.
Back outside, there are various gardens to explore, plus sculptures and numerous places where you can stop off for something to eat. At night, everything is lit up, adding a further layer of spectacle.
Verdict: Fabulous, unique city centre attraction that drags the public garden tradition firmly into the 21st century.
NEED TO KNOW: Gardens by the Bay
GETTING THERE: Train/bus – Circle Line/Downtown Line to Bayfront MRT Station, take Exit B, follow underground linkway, cross Dragonfly Bridge or Meadow Bridge; East-West Line to Tanjong Pagar MRT Station, take Exit C, go to bus stop number 03223 on International Plaza, Anson Road, take the 400 bus, alight at bus stop number 03371 on Marina Gardens Drive. Car – from the Marina Coastal Expressway, turn onto Central Boulevard, then turn right to Marina Gardens Drive.
OPENING HOURS: Flower Dome, Cloud Forest and OCBC Skyway 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Times for other attractions vary – see official website for details.
TICKETS: Admission to glasshouses 28 Singapore dollars adult, S$15 child; OCBC Skyway S$8 adult, S$5 child. See official website for other prices. Visitors have to pre-book the date and time of their visit, and tickets can be bought online or through the attraction’s mobile app.
CONTACT: Address: 18 Marina Gardens Drive, Singapore 018953. Phone: (65) 6420 6848. Email: feedback@gardensbythebay.com.sg
December 2020
MORE INFO
OFFICIAL Gardens by the Bay site has a wealth of information to help you make the most of your visit. READ MORE
RELATED
RAFFLES FACELIFT: Raffles in Singapore was the first posh hotel I encountered, at the end of my first long-haul flight, a few days before my 21st birthday… READ MORE
WHISPERING GRASSES: I’d spent almost five years at home in England nurturing a tiny patch of black bamboo in our back garden, and then I visited this place. Its bamboo grows into forests, a testament to the man who brought them over from China… READ MORE
THE GARDEN OF EDEN: Getting up the energy actually to do some tourism during a stay in the Seychelles might seem like a stretch, but the Vallée de Mai is an exception. I’d say it’s a must-do, so think of it as much-needed exercise… READ MORE
CHERRY BLOSSOM CRUSH: Each year in late March cherry blossom season arrives in Beijing in all its glory. What could be better, you might think, than a relaxing stroll through one of the city’s many fine parks gazing at the beautiful pink blooms… READ MORE
HONG KONG DISNEYLAND has reopened with measures to combat Covid-19 in place. But is it still fun despite the restrictions? We find out. READ MORE
RECOMMENDED
WELCOME TO OUR WORLD! Afaranwide’s home page – this is where you can find out about our latest posts and other highlights. READ MORE
TOP 10 VIRTUAL ATTRACTIONS: Many of the world’s most popular tourists sites are closed because of the coronavirus crisis, but you can still visit them virtually while you’re self-isolating. READ MORE
SHIMLA, QUEEN OF THE HILLS: Government officials once retreated to Shimla in the foothills of the Himalayas to escape India’s blazing hot summers. Now tourists make the same journey. READ MORE
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TROUBLED TIMES FOR EXPATS: Moving abroad can seem an idyllic prospect, but what happens when sudden upheavals or the inescapable realities of life intrude? READ MORE
Disclosure: Afaranwide is an affiliate of leading travel operators such as Booking.com and Japan Rail Pass. If you purchase through our site we receive, at no additional cost to you, a small commission. We only work with companies we have used and recommend.
LET'S KEEP IN TOUCH!
Garden Spectacle
Grew on Me
COLIN SIMPSON
Gardens by the Bay, Singapore
IN 1996, the year before the handover of Hong Kong to China after 156 years of British rule, I flew from London to Australia. I stopped off for a couple of nights in Singapore on the way out, and had a similar stopover in Hong Kong on the return trip.
I was struck by the stark difference between the two cities, which on the face of it had so much in common. Both were densely populated places with futuristic skyscrapers and mainly Chinese populations.
But while Singapore, though clean and tidy, seemed rather sterile and dull, Hong Kong was vibrant and exciting. Singapore’s skyline, while impressive, lacked the dazzling neon lights that blazed from Hong Kong’s many towers.
It was a particularly restrained period in Singapore’s history. Men with longish hair were given compulsory haircuts on arrival, and signs in every metro carriage warned of the penalties for breaking the chewing gum ban. The food stalls that in earlier years had brought life, character and delicious smells to the streets had been moved indoors out of sight. And failing to flush public toilets was against the law.
Hong Kong, in contrast, seemed to crackle with energy and excitement, even if many of its side streets were messy. Years later, when I lived in Hong Kong, visitors from Singapore would talk of how much they enjoyed coming to the territory and escaping stultifying Singapore.
Things have changed a lot, though, and Singapore seems much more relaxed these days. Meanwhile, the violent clashes between protesters and police in 2019 and the subsequent introduction of a strict national security law have altered Hong Kong, probably forever.
Tourism is Key Industry
Hong Kong, while identifying tourism as a key industry, has always been rather complacent about the need to lure visitors. For example, there is only one tourist information office on Hong Kong Island. And efforts to create attractions have appeared half-hearted – Disneyland Hong Kong is the smallest Disney theme park.
It’s as if the simple thrill of being in the exhilarating metropolis with its fabulous harbour was deemed enough to keep the visitors rolling in. The location on the edge of China, with its 1 billion-plus population and rapidly growing middle class, helped too.
In contrast Singapore, as Hong Kong’s dreary cousin, always had to work harder to attract visitors – hence the world-class zoo, Universal Studios Singapore and the rest.
The most prominent and striking of these tourist draws is Gardens by the Bay. Vast tree-shaped structures rise up on the waterfront close to the striking Marina Bay Sands resort, and there are two enormous dome-shaped glasshouses to explore.
I have to admit that initially I didn’t think a garden attraction would appeal to me. But it’s all carried off with such style, originality and extravagance that I was forced to change my mind.
You can walk between the “supertrees” on an elevated walkway with great views across the city. The Flower Dome glasshouse is packed with colour, while the Cloud Forest has more walkways and a 35-metre-high waterfall.
Back outside, there are various gardens to explore, plus sculptures and numerous places where you can stop off for something to eat. At night, everything is lit up, adding a further layer of spectacle.
Verdict: Fabulous, unique city centre attraction that drags the public garden tradition firmly into the 21st century.
NEED TO KNOW: Gardens by the Bay
GETTING THERE: Train/bus – Circle Line/Downtown Line to Bayfront MRT Station, take Exit B, follow underground linkway, cross Dragonfly Bridge or Meadow Bridge; East-West Line to Tanjong Pagar MRT Station, take Exit C, go to bus stop number 03223 on International Plaza, Anson Road, take the 400 bus, alight at bus stop number 03371 on Marina Gardens Drive. Car – from the Marina Coastal Expressway, turn onto Central Boulevard, then turn right to Marina Gardens Drive.
OPENING HOURS: Flower Dome, Cloud Forest and OCBC Skyway 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Times for other attractions vary – see official website for details.
TICKETS: Admission to glasshouses 28 Singapore dollars adult, S$15 child; OCBC Skyway S$8 adult, S$5 child. See official website for other prices. Visitors have to pre-book the date and time of their visit, and tickets can be bought online or through the attraction’s mobile app.
CONTACT: Address: 18 Marina Gardens Drive, Singapore 018953. Phone: (65) 6420 6848. Email: feedback@gardensbythebay.com.sg
December 2020
MORE INFO
OFFICIAL Gardens by the Bay site has a wealth of information to help you make the most of your visit. READ MORE
RELATED
RAFFLES FACELIFT: Raffles in Singapore was the first posh hotel I encountered, at the end of my first long-haul flight, a few days before my 21st birthday… READ MORE
WHISPERING GRASSES: I’d spent almost five years at home in England nurturing a tiny patch of black bamboo in our back garden, and then I visited this place. Its bamboo grows into forests, a testament to the man who brought them over from China… READ MORE
THE GARDEN OF EDEN: Getting up the energy actually to do some tourism during a stay in the Seychelles might seem like a stretch, but the Vallée de Mai is an exception. I’d say it’s a must-do, so think of it as much-needed exercise… READ MORE
CHERRY BLOSSOM CRUSH: Each year in late March cherry blossom season arrives in Beijing in all its glory. What could be better, you might think, than a relaxing stroll through one of the city’s many fine parks gazing at the beautiful pink blooms… READ MORE
HONG KONG DISNEYLAND has reopened with measures to combat Covid-19 in place. But is it still fun despite the restrictions? We find out. READ MORE
RECOMMENDED
WELCOME TO OUR WORLD! Afaranwide’s home page – this is where you can find out about our latest posts and other highlights. READ MORE
TOP 10 VIRTUAL ATTRACTIONS: Many of the world’s most popular tourists sites are closed because of the coronavirus crisis, but you can still visit them virtually while you’re self-isolating. READ MORE
SHIMLA, QUEEN OF THE HILLS: Government officials once retreated to Shimla in the foothills of the Himalayas to escape India’s blazing hot summers. Now tourists make the same journey. READ MORE
TEN THINGS WE LEARNED: Our up-to-the-minute guide to creating a website, one step at a time. The costs, the mistakes – it’s what we wish we’d known when we started blogging. READ MORE
TROUBLED TIMES FOR EXPATS: Moving abroad can seem an idyllic prospect, but what happens when sudden upheavals or the inescapable realities of life intrude? READ MORE
Disclosure: Afaranwide is an affiliate of leading travel operators such as Booking.com and Japan Rail Pass. If you purchase through our site we receive, at no additional cost to you, a small commission. We only work with companies we have used and recommend.