Before that first stay I’d met someone who’d been a guest there before, and she’d told me that she and her boyfriend had been looked after so well by the staff that she’d cried. I’d nodded, though I didn’t really understand what she meant.

But once I was there I kind of did. When we stepped into the vast lobby we were greeted by a queue of gracious staff members in exotic Arab-style uniforms who welcomed us and handed over chilled towels and drinks.

The thing was that it seemed really genuine, they all appeared pleased to see us. Clearly they’re chosen by some rigorous selection process and intensively trained to give that impression. But still, when it works so well it doesn’t half make you feel special. And it wasn’t just the welcoming party, all the staff were like that throughout both stays.

There was no hanging around in reception to check in – we were escorted through the spectacular, 180-metre high atrium with its whooshing fountain up to our suite, where we completed the formalities. We were introduced to our butler.

Now we’ve stayed at a number of hotels which claim to offer a butler service, but often it’s just the duty manager who performs that role. And clearly the Burj does not actually provide a personal butler for each guest, each one covers a number of suites, but that’s how it feels when you’re there. The level of attentiveness is extraordinary – they’ll unpack your bag for you, or run your bath.

Then there was the spacious suite. The Burj is an all-suite hotel, with each one spread over two floors. The furnishings and décor are bright, colourful and sumptuous. The “mini bar” was a “maxi bar” with full-size bottles of vodka and other spirits. The complimentary toiletries weren’t the normal mean little plastic bottles but large glass bottles of Hermes products that you were free to take away. For me there was a bottle of after-shave AND a bottle of after-shave balm. There was a pillow menu so we could select the correct level of softness or firmness, and a bath salts menu.

The first time we stayed we had a deluxe suite, but when we went back we were given an even larger club suite with its own kitchen and snooker room. When we looked out through the two-floor high windows we could see our apartment block. The second stay was also around Sue’s birthday, so the hotel sent along a group of singers led by a guitarist to serenade her in our suite. The only difference from our earlier stay seemed to be that the minibar was smaller and the toiletries less generous, though still Hermes.

The whole experience of staying there was quite overwhelming. So much so that when we ventured out to explore the nearby Souk Madinat Jumeirah we couldn’t bear to be away from the hotel’s comforting embrace and quickly headed back. On the first trip we stayed two nights then moved to the One&Only Royal Mirage.

This is one of the city’s finest hotels, with vast beautiful lawns, but as we arrived there it felt as if we were slumming it after the Burj. The room seemed so small. Staff at the Burj had kept giving us birthday cakes, with members of staff following us around trying to present yet another one. When we arrived at the One&Only we were clutching branded gifts from the Burj – a birthday cake, of course, plus chocolates and dates, and a box containing a stem of orchids. Even the One&Only staff seemed impressed that we’d stayed there.

The Burj has a private beach, a sumptuous spa, five pools – including a high-up indoor infinity one with sweeping views – and nine places to eat. The flagship, seafood-leaning Al Mahara restaurant has tables arranged around a a huge central aquarium – I admit to feeling pangs of guilt as I selected my fish dish.

I also liked the Skyview bar and restaurant, housed in the flattened tube-like bit of the hotel that protrudes from the main structure 200 metres above the ground. Reading back over this piece, I’m afraid it might seem a bit gushing. But really, it’s difficult to fault the Burj. The extravagant, colourful décor, complete with lashings of gold leaf, may be a bit too brash and bright for some. Over-the-top touches such as cappuccinos flecked with 24 carat gold are hard to defend. But in terms of comfort, facilities, service, pampering, and all the other things you look for in a luxury hotel, it’s hard to beat.

Sue Brattle adds: The Burj Al Arab had a special meaning to me when we moved to Dubai – it acted as my landmark when I was constantly lost while driving in the first few months.

If I could see the Burj, I knew I was heading for the coast, or away from it, and heading in the vague direction of my office and our apartment, or away from them! It’s one reason I’m fond of it to this day.

From time to time I had to head straight for it because occasionally press conferences would be held there. I went to one as a Dubai newbie and met a woman who was just leaving Dubai after calling it home for eight years.

“So what’s it like, living here?” I asked her. In her wisdom, she answered: “I’ve enjoyed my Dubai, and hope you enjoy yours. It’s different for everyone, so don’t try to fit in with people around you, just make it your own.” It was my first lesson in being an expat.

Top photo: Looking up from the pool deck at the protruding section that houses the Skyview bar and restaurant.

July 2019

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