CORONAVIRUS CRISIS

Hong Kong
Falls Quiet

By COLIN SIMPSON and SUE BRATTLE

HONG KONG – normally a bustling, super-lively global metropolis – has an unusual coronavirus story to tell. It borders mainland China so was in the eye of the storm when COVID-19 appeared, with thousands of Chinese criss-crossing daily to work and visit family.

All schools and universities were closed on January 25, and companies were urged to let employees work from home where possible. Hongkongers demanded the borders be closed. And we all started to wear masks.

Three months on, and we have had 1,037 coronavirus cases, with 650 patients recovered and four deaths recorded.

 

Hong Kong Tackles Coronavirus
Central has many elevated walkways, but they're not normally as quiet as this
Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
Signs of the times
Hong Kong Tackles Coronavirus
Lunchtime on a work day at Chater Garden in the heart of the city's financial district

Hong Kong has never been in lockdown. Bars, beauty salons and some other businesses are shut by government order, to be reviewed on May 7. Restaurants have reduced their tables by 50 per cent, but few people are eating out.

Shops are open but largely empty without the mainland Chinese shoppers they rely upon, and taxis queue in their dozens waiting for customers.

We have our temperature taken before entering most big shops or office blocks, and some places refuse entry unless you’re wearing a mask. We look on as the mask/no mask debate rages elsewhere in the world.

So what does Hong Kong look like now? On Tuesday, April 21, we spent several hours walking around Central, the usually crowded business and retail centre of Hong Kong Island, which itself is one of the most densely-populated places on earth.

There’s an eerie quietness everywhere; walkways are no longer heaving with office workers, and traffic jams are a thing of the past. We didn’t set out to find a story; our pictures are just snapshots of what we saw on our walk.

Hong Kong Tackles Coronavirus
Few shoppers around at the upmarket Landmark Atrium mall
Hong Kong Tackles Coronavirus
Seats have been removed from half the tables at this café
Hong Kong Tackles Coronavirus
These days it's easy to get one of the city's distinctive red-and-white taxis

The city is famous for its many luxury hotels, such as the Peninsula and the Mandarin Oriental. The lobby of the latter is normally a pleasingly busy place, but when we called in there were no guests there.

Hotel occupancy in Hong Kong – already badly hit by the protests – fell from 56.2 per cent in January to 22.8 per cent in the first three weeks of March, according to STR, a data analytics firm.

Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
Staff have no one to serve at the Mandarin Oriental

The anti-government protests got seriously underway last summer. They began peacefully, but became increasingly violent in the months that followed. These photos show the same view in the Admiralty district – the top one now, the bottom one during last year’s protests.

Hong Kong Tackles Coronavirus
APRIL 2020: Light traffic on what is usually one of the city's busiest routes
Hong Kong protests
SEPTEMBER 2019: Protesters take over the road during one of many mass marches

The bars that have been shuttered include those in Lan Kwai Fong, a lively-cum-seedy downtown nightlife district. It normally attracts a hard-partying crowd who stay there until dawn.

A cluster of confirmed COVID-19 cases has been linked to the area. One of the bars named in newspaper reports about the outbreak, Insomnia, currently displays posters thanking health professionals.

The video shows a jollier time in Lan Kwai Fong – 5 a.m. revellers on a Sunday in June last year.

Hong Kong Tackles Coronavirus
Tributes to health professionals at Insomnia

The Lan Kwai Fong crowd would often stagger to the nearby Flying Pan diner to pick up some ballast. Sadly, the restaurant – a Hong Kong institution despite its dodgy name – closed last month. It’s one of many restaurants and bars in the Soho dining district that have been badly hit by the protests and COVID-19.

A message on the Flying Pan’s Facebook page says: “The coronavirus has been the final nail in the coffin for many an eatery in Soho. We are no exception.” A second outlet in Wanchai remains open.

'To Let' sign at the former Flying Pan restaurant in Central

Apple stores around the world remain shut, apart from those in Greater China,which includes Hong Kong.

Apple store
Hong Kong's Apple store remains open for business
Inside the Apple story
Often there are more staff than customers

The ferries that normally shuttle between Hong Kong and the gambling hub of Macau have been tied up for  months.

Macau has dealt with the coronavirus remarkably well, particularly as it borders mainland China. There have been just 45 confirmed COVID-19 cases and no deaths in the former Portuguese colony.

Hong Kong Tackles Coronavirus
The ferries are usually a familiar sight as they speed through Victoria Harbour
Hong Kong Tackles Coronavirus
The Macau Ferry Terminal in Central district is spookily quiet

Hong Kong’s Disneyland Resort, which was already facing financial headwinds before the pandemic, was one of the first Disney theme parks to close.

The special trains that in normal times would carry hordes of excited visitors to the park are still running, but on a reduced timetable.

Updated April 27, 2020

Hong Kong Tackles Coronavirus
Deserted approach to the theme park's entrance
Hong Kong Tackles Coronavirus
Train carriages have Mickey Mouse-shaped windows and strap handles

MORE INFO – CORONAVIRUS

virtual travelTHE WORLD Health Organization’s site has latest news, rolling updates, advice on protecting yourself, and country and technical guidance. READ MORE

THE US GOVERNMENT’S coronavirus site, with information on preparing and protecting yourself, and what to do if you think you’re sick. READ MORE

virtual travelTHE WEBSITE of the UK’s National Health Service is always a good choice for information on a wide range of medical matters, and it has plenty of advice on coronavirus. READ MORE

RELATED

Hong Kong skylineVIRTUAL HONG KONG STAYCATION: Hong Kong’s tourism industry has been battered by months of protests. We took a week-long staycation to see what’s happening on the ground. READ MORE

Hong Kong protestorsTROUBLED TIMES FOR EXPATS: Moving abroad can seem an idyllic prospect, but what happens when sudden upheavals or the inescapable realities of life intrude? READ MORE

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LET'S KEEP IN TOUCH!

CORONAVIRUS CRISIS

Hong Kong
Falls Quiet

BylineMask

By COLIN SIMPSON and SUE BRATTLE

HONG KONG – normally a bustling, super-lively global metropolis – has an unusual coronavirus story to tell. It borders mainland China so was in the eye of the storm when COVID-19 appeared, with thousands of Chinese criss-crossing daily to work and visit family.

All schools and universities were closed on January 25, and companies were urged to let employees work from home where possible. Hongkongers demanded the borders be closed. And we all started to wear masks.

Three months on, and we have had 1,037 coronavirus cases, with 650 patients recovered and four deaths recorded.

Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
Central has many elevated walkways, but they're not normally as quiet as this
Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
Lunchtime on a work day at Chater Garden in the heart of the city's financial district

Hong Kong has never been in lockdown. Bars, beauty salons and some other businesses are shut by government order, to be reviewed on May 7. Restaurants have reduced their tables by 50 per cent, but few people are eating out.

Shops are open but largely empty without the mainland Chinese shoppers they rely upon, and taxis queue in their dozens waiting for customers.

We have our temperature taken before entering most big shops or office blocks, and some places refuse entry unless you’re wearing a mask. We look on as the mask/no mask debate rages elsewhere in the world.

So what does Hong Kong look like now? On Tuesday, April 21, we spent several hours walking around Central, the usually crowded business and retail centre of Hong Kong Island, which itself is one of the most densely-populated places on earth.

There’s an eerie quietness everywhere; walkways are no longer heaving with office workers, and traffic jams are a thing of the past. We didn’t set out to find a story; our pictures are just snapshots of what we saw on our walk.

Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
Few shoppers around at the upmarket Landmark Atrium mall
Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
Seats have been removed from half the tables at this café
Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
These days it's easy to get one of the city's distinctive red-and-white taxis

The city is famous for its many luxury hotels, such as the Peninsula and the Mandarin Oriental. The lobby of the latter is normally a pleasingly busy place, but when we called in there were no guests there.

Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
Staff have no one to serve at the Mandarin Oriental

Hotel occupancy in Hong Kong – already badly hit by the protests – fell from 56.2 per cent in January to 22.8 per cent in the first three weeks of March, according to STR, a data analytics firm.

The anti-government protests got seriously underway last summer. They began peacefully, but became increasingly violent in the months that followed. These photos show the same view in the Admiralty district – the top one now, the bottom one during last year’s protests.

Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
APRIL 2020: Light traffic on what is usually one of the city's busiest routes
Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
SEPTEMBER 2019: Protesters take over the road during one of many mass marches
Hong Kong Tackles Coronavirus

The bars that have been shuttered include those in Lan Kwai Fong, a lively-cum-seedy downtown nightlife district. It normally attracts a hard-partying crowd who stay there until dawn.

Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
Tributes to health professionals at Insomnia

A cluster of confirmed COVID-19 cases has been linked to the area. One of the bars named in newspaper reports about the outbreak, Insomnia, currently displays posters thanking health professionals.

The video shows a jollier time in Lan Kwai Fong – 5 a.m. revellers on a Sunday in June last year.

'To Let' sign at the former Flying Pan restaurant in Central

The Lan Kwai Fong crowd would often stagger to the nearby Flying Pan diner to pick up some ballast. Sadly, the restaurant – a Hong Kong institution despite its dodgy name – closed last month. It’s one of many restaurants and bars in the Soho dining district that have been badly hit by the protests and COVID-19.

A message on the Flying Pan’s Facebook page says: “The coronavirus has been the final nail in the coffin for many an eatery in Soho. We are no exception.” A second outlet in Wanchai remains open.

Apple stores around the world remain shut, apart from those in Greater China,which includes Hong Kong.

Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
Hong Kong's Apple store remains open for business
Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
Often there are more staff than customers

The ferries that normally shuttle between Hong Kong and the gambling hub of Macau have been tied up for  months.

Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
The ferries are usually a familiar sight as they speed through Victoria Harbour

Macau has dealt with the coronavirus remarkably well, particularly as it borders mainland China. There have been just 45 confirmed COVID-19 cases and no deaths in the former Portuguese colony.

Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
The Macau Ferry Terminal in Central district is spookily quiet

Hong Kong’s Disneyland Resort, which was already facing financial headwinds before the pandemic, was one of the first Disney theme parks to close.

Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
Deserted approach to the theme park's entrance
Closed sign
Hong Kong tackles coronavirus
Train carriages have Mickey Mouse-shaped windows and strap handles

The special trains that in normal times would carry hordes of excited visitors to the park are still running, but on a reduced timetable.

Updated April 27, 2020

MORE INFO – CORONAVIRUS

virtual travelTHE WORLD Health Organization’s site has latest news, rolling updates, advice on protecting yourself, and country and technical guidance. READ MORE

THE US GOVERNMENT’S coronavirus site, with information on preparing and protecting yourself, and what to do if you think you’re sick. READ MORE

virtual travelTHE WEBSITE of the UK’s National Health Service is always a good choice for information on a wide range of medical matters, and it has plenty of advice on coronavirus. READ MORE

RELATED

Hong Kong skylineVIRTUAL HONG KONG STAYCATION: Hong Kong’s tourism industry has been battered by months of protests. We took a week-long staycation to see what’s happening on the ground. READ MORE

Hong Kong protestorsTROUBLED TIMES FOR EXPATS: Moving abroad can seem an idyllic prospect, but what happens when sudden upheavals or the inescapable realities of life intrude? READ MORE

RECOMMENDED

Colin and Sue at Taj MahalWELCOME TO OUR WORLD! Afaranwide’s home page – this is where you can find out about our latest posts and other highlights. READ MORE

social seasonTOP 10 ATTRACTIONS: Many of the world’s most popular tourists sites are closed because of the coronavirus crisis, but you can still visit them virtually while you’re self-isolating. READ MORE

Shimla trainSHIMLA, QUEEN OF THE HILLS: Government officials once retreated to Shimla in the foothills of the Himalayas to escape India’s blazing hot summers. Now tourists make the same journey. READ MORE

Blog grabTEN THINGS WE LEARNED: Our detailed guide to creating a website, one step at a time. The costs, the mistakes – it’s what we wish we’d known when we started blogging. READ MORE

LET'S KEEP IN TOUCH!

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Alexandra Wrigley
April 23, 2020 4:03 pm

These are such eerie photos, it’s a sad and eye-opening reminder of the time we’re living in. But amidst all the drastic deaths, the environment will benefit from it. I’m looking forward to being able to travel in the future.